The sail needs to be hoisted very near to the sheave so do not tie a long bowline in the halyard. Do a single overhand knot then follow with another overhand as shown. The final sail has a grommet in the head instead of the tape (see at right) and you should still use this knot.
Feed the bolt rope in from the side of the gooseneck. The feeder has been placed very close to the gooseneck because the tack of the sail needs to be held against the mast to take the tension load from the outhaul. The feeder in the picture was a little too close, making the hoisting difficult and it has since been raised one inch. A little sunscreen lotion on the bolt rope, or sail track lubricant, greatly eases the hoisting operation. Hoist the sail until the top of the head is even with the top of the black laminate. See above. For every 1″ you are lower, the bottom block of the cunningham will travel 4″ lower until, finally, it will hit the deck before the cunningham is fully tightened. The cunningham is the accelerator on the CII and you MUST be able to tighten it completely to fully depower the sail. Once the sail is set up on shore, sheet the main in lightly and cleat it. Now pull on the cunningham and observe the mast bending in response, the main flattening out and the complete lack of tension in the leech because there has been no mainsheet or vang tension applied. This means that it will open easily and quickly in response to the wind pressure. If you need more power, just release the cunningham.
The pictures show the recommended cunningham arrangement. A loose spectra braid has been used which is easily spliced even by an amateur. A loop has been created in the middle of the line and this is hooked over the pin of the twist shackle that holds the vang.
The existing system of a rope passing through the grommet and terminating in a block can still be used but the system shown, using a hook block is simpler and allows easier de-rigging as the whole system can stay with the mast.
This shows the complete 8:1 system in place. Note that the tack of the sail is well up above the boom for light air. In heavy air, it will be down very near, or at, boom level.
The final 2:1 purchase uses the existing cunningham deck line (shown in green) which should still be fed through the bullseye. In all the pictures, the vang has been removed for clarity but it is the standard Byte vang. You might have to shorten some of the falls in your vang because the gooseneck is about 50 mm (2″) lower on the carbon spar but the vang tang (attachment point) is at the same height off the deck.
You can use your existing halyard but we suggest you rig it as follows. After the main is fully hoisted, bring the fall of the halyard close to the gooseneck and push a piece of light shockchord through the rope at approximately the top of the gooseneck fitting. Make about a 6″ loop . Pass the loop under and over the fitting then back down and hook onto the bolt holding the blocks.
Halyard secured. Now pass the tail of the halyard between the cunningham and the mast as shown in the picture and stow in the pocket at the bottom of the cuff.
There are two positions on the foot of the sail to secure the tail of the cuff. Use the aft one in strong winds and the forward one in light airs: it makes it easier to shape the foot of the sail. The cuff has been demonstrated to be increasing the aspect ratio of the sail and to significantly lighten the helm in strong winds. If not enough tension is on the cuff in strong winds, it will “suck” out to leeward of the mast indicating that the area is in lift. It is also reducing the drag from all the control lines in the area.